Jun 252014
 

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Fisher Paykel ovens are airily complex ovens. Diagnosing them can be a challenge. Several things can cause these ovens to heat slowly or not heat at all.

Recently I’ve received several emails regarding issues during the pre heat. I want to write a post that describes one of the most common issues on Fisher Paykel ovens.

These wall ovens whether single or double use the convection element for pre heat. Since this element is a lot smaller than the bake and broil it usually fails sooner. When the convection element fails the oven will take forever to get up to temp if it gets to temp at all. On a recent service call the oven would not go over 200 degress after 30 minutes. The first thing I did was check the convection element and so should you if you are having a slow pre heat time.

JustAnswer.com
You only need a Philp screw driver to check the oven. First you want to flip the breaker so no power is present to the oven. Once the power has been disconnected you can start taking the oven apart. Open the door and lock the small clip so the door can be removed. Pictured below you can see the clip that needs to be locked so the door can be removed which will give you better access.

How to remove Fisher Paykel oven door

How to remove Fisher Paykel oven door

Now that you have the door off you will have easier access to get inside and check the convection element out. the racks inside the oven at this point will need to be removed so go ahead and remove them. Now on the upper back panel you will see two small screws. Once the screws are removed the panel will fall forward and you can lift it up and out. On the bottom of the panel there are two small tabs that sit in cut outs that hold the bottom of the back panel in place. Pictured below is the back panel that needs to be removed to gain access to the convection element.

Fisher Paykel Oven Back Panel

Fisher Paykel Oven Back Panel

Now that you have that back panel off that is pictured to the right you will be able to either visually inspect or ohm the convection element out. The element should read around 60k. You need a ohm meter to test the two outer terminals of the convection element. If the element looks like the one pictured below and left, then you know it has failed and needs to be replaced.

 

Fisher Paykel Convection Element

Fisher Paykel Convection Element

 

 

You can see once you have the back panel off that if the element has failed it’s pretty obvious. This oven was taking almost 30 minutes to get to 200 on the LCD readout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is what the failed convection element looks like mounted in the rear of the oven. See picture on the bottom right.  Obviously it has failed and needs to be replaced. After replacing the element I timed the pre heat. To get up to 350 it took around 14 minutes.

Obviously many factors can cause an oven to heat shorter or longer but on these ovens around 15 minutes you should be around 350.

Failed Fisher Paykel Oven Convection Element

Failed Fisher Paykel Oven Convection Element

What did you find wrong with your Fisher Paykel oven? Was the convection element shorted out like the one pictured in this post? If so leave a brief comment in the comment section below. If you have questions about why your oven is taking so long to heat or if it’s not heating at all also leave a comment below.

 

Fisher Paykel Appliance Repair – Portland – Oregon

  9 Responses to “Fisher Paykel Wall Oven Slow Heat times”

  1. I’m replacing this element but when I removed it from the oven only one of the connectors stayed connected…the green wire attached to the middle prong. I can only find 2 other wires that appear to connect to the element. One is brown and the other is blue. The blue wire appears to actually be 2 wires combined into a single connector. My questions are 1.) are these the only three connecting wires – one green, one blue, and one brown? and 2.) if so, I know the green goes to the center terminal as it was still connected when I pulled the element out but which wire attaches to the “top” connector and which to the “bottom”? Top being the top terminal when the element is installed.

    • I spoke with the technical folks at DCS. The technician told me that as long as the green wire is connected to the center or middle prong, the other two wires (Blue and Brown) can be connected on either top or bottom prongs. Hope this helps answer your question concerning the three wire connections. I replaced my element and it worked just fine. I connected the green to the middle, the blue to the top and the brown on the bottom connectors.

  2. hi I have replaced the element and its still taken 45 minutes to reach about 180 could the temperature sensor be faulty?
    Regards craig

  3. I have a double oven, the top oven has just started to fail to heat. I checked the element but it looks perfect. Are there any other reasons why it will not get to the temperature needed? Thank you

  4. When I removed the heating element, only the green and brown wires were connected. I can see and grab an orange wire but I don’t see a blue one. I think I have to get to the back of the oven. Do I need to pull the oven out and remove the outer casing or do I need to full the back of the inside of the oven out to get to the cavity where the wires are?

    • I just did this successfully thanks to finding this page.
      Only the green center wire had enough slack to come through to the inside of the oven with the element removed. I had to pull out the oven and take the back cover off to access and replace the wires from the back after replacing the element.

  5. Have a DCS wall oven. The front panel does not light up: The oven light does not go on: has a continuous beeping sound; does not heat; NOTHING WORKS. What can I do ?

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