Jun 182015

The F&P DD603 was and is a very common dish drawer here in the United States. Fisher Paykel have made some major improvements compared to the earlier DD602 model. I personally will not even touch a DD602 dish drawer. To many things brake given the age. It’s not worth it so if you have a F&P DD602 dish drawer and are having leaking problems, toss it.

The DD603 however and it’s post predecessors are actually pretty good dishwashers. IMO they clean well and are very functional. I like how you don’t have to use two drawers. So if the kids are gone, you only have to use one drawer. If you have company over, you have two. I’ve always appreciated the thought and design that goes into F&P Appliances. They truly do have some state of the art appliances in circulation.

The most common issue on these dish drawers are the actuators. The second most common issue is the link kit. The early run models had a plastic cable that moved the hoses and wires behind the drawer back and forth. Over time the plastic carrier would break. When it breaks one end would rise up and get trapped under the lid and drawer. When the dishwasher fills up and the rotor starts turning water will spray out of the top and leak down to the mains filter board. When that happens the dishwasher will sound the F1 alarm indicating water is in the sealed base pan.

I’m sure you’ve seen our dish drawer repair video if you’ve done any googling about the issue. The video shows how to access diagnostic mode on a F&P dish drawer so you can activate the lid without the drawer being in place. That way you can see if one of the actuators has failed or if they work.

Once you have the drawer out you can inspect the link kit. Look at the wire harness and hoses on the back side of the drawer. If you see a thin white plastic line that carries everything back and forth, that’s the old style link kit. The new style link kit is a metal arm basically that pivots back and forth or side to side to bring the hoses and wires back and forth. The metal style link kit is bullet proof. If you have the old style, update to the new style.

If your link kit looks good, the actuators are most likely going to be the issue. The actuators raise and lower the lid. They basically have a screw type device connected to them and it screws in and out to raise and lower the lid. Over time the actuators wear out. Usually one will fail before the other. The old manilla colored ones are old and need to be upgraded to the newer style that is now black.

Still have questions about your Fisher & Paykel Dish drawer? Use the comment form below and I’ll try my best to assist you.



  6 Responses to “How To Fix Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer Leaking DD603”

  1. I have a 12 yr old Fisher Paykel double dish drawer (DD603SS) that is getting a F1 error code.
    Based on some info I’ve seen online, I’m guessing there might have been some overflow and there might be water in the bottom pan. For the life of me, I can’t figure out how to get the bottom door out. I depress the tabs on both sides, but the drawer doesn’t lift out and I don’t want to break anything. Can you help me with this or might you have a video on how to remove the drawer?

    Thank you

  2. Hi Matt,I have had several problems with my dishwasher it is 5 years old . i had a certified (Certifiable ) repair man come and take 2.5 months to repair it at the tune of 600.00 to repair plastic motor kits. he was also suppose to repair the drainage issue the trap always has water in it but is not clogged. therefore old gross water cleans my dishes:( I will not have him back to my house but am still stuck with the issues at hand. Can you help me?

  3. hi matt i never got your response to a reason other than clogging cause i checked , for drawers not draining

    ty CC

  4. I have a F&P DD605 with an F9 code, any ideas?

  5. A lot of sites talk about the flap valve. Where the f** is this thing ? My two drawer unit will not drain (no a single drop comes out) Something must be clogged, no ?

  6. Hi Matt: On my F&P leaking lower double dishwasher I took the bottom tub out and saw the kinked and now broken plastic link. It’s just a piece of plastic bundled to the hoses. How do I purchase just the metal arm link kit? I don’t see that part on the F&P parts list? The F1 error flows water mostly down the left side after about 5 minutes of use and floods the overflow pan.

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