Jun 182015
 

The F&P DD603 was and is a very common dish drawer here in the United States. Fisher Paykel have made some major improvements compared to the earlier DD602 model. I personally will not even touch a DD602 dish drawer. To many things brake given the age. It’s not worth it so if you have a F&P DD602 dish drawer and are having leaking problems, toss it.

The DD603 however and it’s post predecessors are actually pretty good dishwashers. IMO they clean well and are very functional. I like how you don’t have to use two drawers. So if the kids are gone, you only have to use one drawer. If you have company over, you have two. I’ve always appreciated the thought and design that goes into F&P Appliances. They truly do have some state of the art appliances in circulation.

The most common issue on these dish drawers are the actuators. The second most common issue is the link kit. The early run models had a plastic cable that moved the hoses and wires behind the drawer back and forth. Over time the plastic carrier would break. When it breaks one end would rise up and get trapped under the lid and drawer. When the dishwasher fills up and the rotor starts turning water will spray out of the top and leak down to the mains filter board. When that happens the dishwasher will sound the F1 alarm indicating water is in the sealed base pan.

I’m sure you’ve seen our dish drawer repair video if you’ve done any googling about the issue. The video shows how to access diagnostic mode on a F&P dish drawer so you can activate the lid without the drawer being in place. That way you can see if one of the actuators has failed or if they work.

Once you have the drawer out you can inspect the link kit. Look at the wire harness and hoses on the back side of the drawer. If you see a thin white plastic line that carries everything back and forth, that’s the old style link kit. The new style link kit is a metal arm basically that pivots back and forth or side to side to bring the hoses and wires back and forth. The metal style link kit is bullet proof. If you have the old style, update to the new style.

If your link kit looks good, the actuators are most likely going to be the issue. The actuators raise and lower the lid. They basically have a screw type device connected to them and it screws in and out to raise and lower the lid. Over time the actuators wear out. Usually one will fail before the other. The old manilla colored ones are old and need to be upgraded to the newer style that is now black.

Still have questions about your Fisher & Paykel Dish drawer? Use the comment form below and I’ll try my best to assist you.

 

Matt

Apr 292015
 

Update: “This post is close to 2000 words. There’s a ton of valuable information contained in the paragraphs below. I am an Appliance Repair technician with many tens of thousands of repairs under my belt. I built this site for the DIY Appliance Repair Person. I hope you find all or some of the information you need to make your DIY appliance repair in the post below. If you do find a piece of the information below useful, please use the comment form below and say “Thanks” “It Worked’ it goes a long ways.”

Best price on Samsung appliance parts

Samsung dishwashers use two different styles to display an error code. The first way is with numbers and letters. For instance a 5e error code. The second way is a sequence of flashing lights. I will post a link “here” when that post is done. For now lets talk about the 4e, 5e, oE, HE, and LE samsung DW error codes.

1.”4E”Error Code :

Water supply error. When this error code is displayed there is a water fill fault. The first thing to check is the water supply valve. The valve is usually under the sink. Make sure the valve is turned to the on position.

The next step is to make sure you have pressure to the valve on the DW. For this step you will need to unplug the dishwasher and remove the toe kick on the bottom. Two screws hold the toe kick in place. Once off you will see the water valve on the left. Follow the main water line to the valve. Turn the main valve under the sink off. Remove the connection on the valve. Turn water back on and make sure you have good pressure. It should be between “20 psi and 120 psi”

If the above all test good, the valve or flow meter on the left side are suspect. You can test the valve with a volt/ohm meter. You can try to clean the pressure sensor assembly on the left side of the tub.

2. “5E” Water Drain Error:

This is probably one of the most common Samsung dishwasher error codes. In most of the literature on line you will see Samsung advises to check the drain hose for a kink. I’ve seen a few drain hoses cause this issue but usually the drain line or drain pump housing is clogged with debris.

If you have an air gap installed on the top of the sink, check the clean out trap in the air gap first. It’s quick and easy to do so. Remove the top cap and pull the small clean out from the middle of the air gap. Clean any debris from the inside. If the air gap is dirty, you just saved yourself a lot of work. It’s the simplest check for the 5E error. The second simplest check is to remove the drain hose from the garbage disposal and put it in a bucket. Start the dishwasher and let it run to see if it will drain. often times debris will clog in the connection under the sink. It’s another quick and easy test. Now that those two suspect are ruled out we know the problem is with the dishwasher and not the house plumbing. Samsung dishwashers use an auxiliary drain pump. These drain pumps are separate from the wash motor assembly. The pump is on the right side. Unfortunately, the dishwasher does need to be removed from under the cabinet to check the pump. The auxiliary drain pump is a 110v pump with a small impeller on the inside of the housing. Small items like glass, seeds, etc, will make it through the system all the way to the pump housing. Once inside the foreign object will basically jamb the drain pump impeller. Make sure you have disconnected power by unplugging or flipping the breaker off to the dishwasher. The auxiliary drain pump is mounted to the plastic sump assembly with a locking tab. You simply have to depress the tab and twist the pump housing. The pump will come off giving you access to the inside where the impeller is. You could have a floating restriction so check around inside the sump assembly once the pump is off. Sometimes the item will be floating back and forth between the hose and the pump.

I find that over 50% of the time the issue is with the air gap. The other 50% of the time the drain pump is clogged or faulty.

3. “LE” Leakage Sensor:

In the bottom sealed base pan below where the water fills up there is a sensor. Most newer dishwasher have a sensor like this or a similar system in place to try and help cut down on water damage related issues. The LE error code points directly to the sensor mounted on the bottom. The hardest part of this job is to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. Depending on how the water line and electrical were hooked up by the installers this could be 5 minutes or an hour long process. Why copper water lines and short romex are still used I have no idea. Blows my mind somedays to be honest. Why not do it right. Make it easy for the next guy to work on ya know..I digress.. The dishwasher will need to either be laid on it’s back or on it’s side. Grab a thick blanket and lay the dishwasher down. A small amount of water will leak out so use a thicker blanket or have some towels handy and ready. The bottom has a small screw and several plastic tabs that hold it in place. Once off you will see the sensor and the plug and play connection. Now the fun part begins. Finding out where the leak is coming from can be simple or mind numbing. Dry the water from the base pan. Clean the sensor with a dry rag. I even use a blow dryer just to speed the process up and make sure everything is dry before I put it back together. The easiest way is to run a cycle with it removed from under the cabinet. If you’re not able to do that, I’m sorry. If you can, watch for something to start leaking. The leak will need to be fixed before it will work as designed. The leak could be coming from a hose, motor, seal, anywhere really.

 

 

4. “0E” Overflow Error:

The 0E error code indicates an overfill condition. On the left side of the dishwasher is a small square plastic box. Inside the box is a small sensor. Sometimes the box will become clogged with food debris and slow or stop the water flow. When that happens the sensor trips the board and the 0E error code is displayed. If the box is clean and clear, the sensor has most likely failed and will need to be replaced. You can purchase the sensor by putting your model number into the appliance search bar above or by clicking here. Type your model number in and search for overflow sensor. If you have any problems finding it, please use the comment form below and I will assist you.

The water valve can also cause this error code. The water valve is a solenoid. When power is applied the plunger inside lifts up and allows water to enter the dishwasher. Sometimes the plunger will stick in the up position and and water will enter the dishwasher even when the control board is not sending power to the water valve. Not super common but it does happen and often enough for me to point it out. If you unplug the dishwasher or flip the breaker and the dishwasher is still filling, then you have a shorted water valve assembly. In the event the water valve sticks open the only way to shut the water off is to shut the main water line connection for the dishwasher off. The main water line connection is most times located under the sink on the hot water side of the sinks water lines. If the valve is the culprit, it will need to be replaced. You can purchase a new valve from the search bar above or by clicking here.

5. “HE” Heater Failure: 

The heater on these dishwasher have been known to fail. When the heater element fails the water temperature does not raise and the sensor can tell. When the sensor knows the dishwasher is running in a normal heated dryer cycle the temp inside should raise. On the Sanitary cycle the temperature needs to get close to 160 degrees. The heater can be tested by using a volt/ohm meter. The easiest way is to unplug or disconnect power and pull the dishwasher forward. Remove the side panel and make a test across the element. Make sure not power is present when making this test. The element should have continuity. If not, the element is shorted and will need to be replaced. If it does have continuity or resistance, then the control board would be suspect. It’s possible the control board is not sending voltage down to the element when it should be. Also check for any loose or kinked wires from the control panel down to the element. I’ve seen a couple wire pinched and broken where they bend around the bottom front of the frame.

6. 9E Low Water level Error:

The 9E error code is another fairly common error on Samsung dishwashers. If you’ve been googling the answer to this error code, you’ve found the right post. The low water error code usually indicates an issue with the sensor on the side of the dishwasher. Just like with the OE error the overflow sensor can become clogged with food waste. Make sure the hoses are clean and the sensor inside is clean and clear of food debris. If the sensor is clean, it most likely have failed and needs to be replaced. The overflow sensor is a very straight forward repair. If you’re handy, you can make this repair yourself.

7. bE2 Stuck Button On Control:

The bE2 error code means the control board senses a stuck or shorted key on the touch pad. Not common but does occur every now and then the first thing to try is to flip the breaker. Unplugging the dishwasher is also an option if it’s an option for you. In some newer homes they hardwire the dishwasher and the only way to turn the power off is to flip the 20 amp breaker for the dishwasher. Leave the dishwasher unplugged or with the breaker off for 3-5 minutes. Leaving the power of for several minutes will allow the capacitors on the PCB to discharge. If the 9E error code is simply an electronic glitch, the power reset will possibly reset the error code and get the dishwasher back up and cleaning dishes. If the power reset does not fix the 9E error, the touch pad control has likely failed and will need to be replaced to fix this issue. The repair is actually very straight forward. The control is held in place with several small screws and the wire connections are all plug and play type. If you’re handy, you can make the repair yourself.

 

Do you still have Samsung dishwasher error code questions? If so, please use the comment form below and I will try my best to assist you with your dishwasher troubleshooting.

Did you find the information in this post useful? If so, please also use the comment form and say “Thanks” it really means a lot when readers drop me a line saying it worked. A simple “Thank you” can go a long ways especially in the world we live in today.

Thanks

Samsung Appliance Parts