Kitchen Aid KGRC608LSSO Schematic:
Fisher Paykel ovens are airily complex ovens. Diagnosing them can be a challenge. Several things can cause these ovens to heat slowly or not heat at all.
Recently I’ve received several emails regarding issues during the pre heat. I want to write a post that describes one of the most common issues on Fisher Paykel ovens.
These wall ovens whether single or double use the convection element for pre heat. Since this element is a lot smaller than the bake and broil it usually fails sooner. When the convection element fails the oven will take forever to get up to temp if it gets to temp at all. On a recent service call the oven would not go over 200 degress after 30 minutes. The first thing I did was check the convection element and so should you if you are having a slow pre heat time.
You only need a Philp screw driver to check the oven. First you want to flip the breaker so no power is present to the oven. Once the power has been disconnected you can start taking the oven apart. Open the door and lock the small clip so the door can be removed. Pictured below you can see the clip that needs to be locked so the door can be removed which will give you better access.
Now that you have the door off you will have easier access to get inside and check the convection element out. the racks inside the oven at this point will need to be removed so go ahead and remove them. Now on the upper back panel you will see two small screws. Once the screws are removed the panel will fall forward and you can lift it up and out. On the bottom of the panel there are two small tabs that sit in cut outs that hold the bottom of the back panel in place. Pictured below is the back panel that needs to be removed to gain access to the convection element.
Now that you have that back panel off that is pictured to the right you will be able to either visually inspect or ohm the convection element out. The element should read around 60k. You need a ohm meter to test the two outer terminals of the convection element. If the element looks like the one pictured below and left, then you know it has failed and needs to be replaced.
You can see once you have the back panel off that if the element has failed it’s pretty obvious. This oven was taking almost 30 minutes to get to 200 on the LCD readout.
This is what the failed convection element looks like mounted in the rear of the oven. See picture on the bottom right. Obviously it has failed and needs to be replaced. After replacing the element I timed the pre heat. To get up to 350 it took around 14 minutes.
Obviously many factors can cause an oven to heat shorter or longer but on these ovens around 15 minutes you should be around 350.
What did you find wrong with your Fisher Paykel oven? Was the convection element shorted out like the one pictured in this post? If so leave a brief comment in the comment section below. If you have questions about why your oven is taking so long to heat or if it’s not heating at all also leave a comment below.
DCS wall ovens are made by Fisher Paykel appliance. One common issues with these particular wall ovens is the display eventually goes dim. Most all ranges and ovens use a small led clock for a display.
Over time these displays will start to fade and eventually go completely blank. When this happens on your DCS oven you will most likely need to replace the clock assembly. You will need basic mechanical skills to replace the clock on your oven.
On the bottom of the ovens control panel you will see four small screws. First turn the power off to the unit. Next remove the four screws and slide the ovens control panel up and off. Don’t pull to hard or fast the wires behind are connected to the clock and the wires are short. Simply remove the wires from the clock.
The connections are all plug and play type. Next remove the 4 screws that anchor the clock assembly to the control panel. At this point you can simply install the new clock and reassemble and you are in business.