The exact definition of this error when the clean light is blinking means that your dishwasher is failing to heat the water in an allotted time. This problem can occur on Whirlpool, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, Jenn-Air, and Maytag dishwashers. The error can be caused by numerous issues but the first thing you want to do is reset the control board.
-To reset the control board press: high temp wash, heated dry, High temp wash, heated dry, high temp wash, heated dry, high temp wash, heated dry, high temp wash. If you don’t have a “heated dry” button, use the “air dry” or “energy saver dry” button instead.
-All the lights will go solid at which point you press cancel to reset the board.
-If the control board doesn’t reset, it’s likely that you’ve just got a faulty control board and the control board will need to be ordered and replaced.
The next step in this process is to start a new cycle and see what happens. If the error code returns, then you’ll want to reset the board again and check several things. The most common reasons for this error is because the water coming from your household is just too cold. The dishwasher is expecting 110 degree water to enter your dishwasher, so if your pipes are cold, the water may only come in luke warm. To correct this issue, just run your faucet next to the dishwasher until the water coming out is hot. On another note, make sure the dishwasher is washing with good water pressure. You can put a cup in the upper rack facing upwards and run a cycle to see if it will fill within 10 minutes of starting the cycle. If it doesn’t fill with water then you know that the dishwasher isn’t producing enough pressure which, in turn, will cause the water to not heat. You’d want to take your pump and motor assembly apart to clean inside if you had a loss of pressure.
You could also have a failed component including a faulty heater, control board, or high limit thermostat. You’d need to uninstall your dishwasher, disconnect power and lay it on it’s back to check the resistance of the heater as well as the resistance of the high limit thermostat to confirm if they were bad or good. You should get tangible reading of between 5 and 30 ohms on the heater if it’s good and less than one ohm on the high limit thermostat. If both of those devices check good, then replace the control board because that’s the one device you cannot test.