Jun 252014

Ask Appliance Technicians Now

Fisher Paykel ovens are airily complex ovens. Diagnosing them can be a challenge. Several things can cause these ovens to heat slowly or not heat at all.

Recently I’ve received several emails regarding issues during the pre heat. I want to write a post that describes one of the most common issues on Fisher Paykel ovens.

These wall ovens whether single or double use the convection element for pre heat. Since this element is a lot smaller than the bake and broil it usually fails sooner. When the convection element fails the oven will take forever to get up to temp if it gets to temp at all. On a recent service call the oven would not go over 200 degress after 30 minutes. The first thing I did was check the convection element and so should you if you are having a slow pre heat time.

You only need a Philp screw driver to check the oven. First you want to flip the breaker so no power is present to the oven. Once the power has been disconnected you can start taking the oven apart. Open the door and lock the small clip so the door can be removed. Pictured below you can see the clip that needs to be locked so the door can be removed which will give you better access.

How to remove Fisher Paykel oven door

How to remove Fisher Paykel oven door

Now that you have the door off you will have easier access to get inside and check the convection element out. the racks inside the oven at this point will need to be removed so go ahead and remove them. Now on the upper back panel you will see two small screws. Once the screws are removed the panel will fall forward and you can lift it up and out. On the bottom of the panel there are two small tabs that sit in cut outs that hold the bottom of the back panel in place. Pictured below is the back panel that needs to be removed to gain access to the convection element.

Fisher Paykel Oven Back Panel

Fisher Paykel Oven Back Panel

Now that you have that back panel off that is pictured to the right you will be able to either visually inspect or ohm the convection element out. The element should read around 60k. You need a ohm meter to test the two outer terminals of the convection element. If the element looks like the one pictured below and left, then you know it has failed and needs to be replaced.


Fisher Paykel Convection Element

Fisher Paykel Convection Element



You can see once you have the back panel off that if the element has failed it’s pretty obvious. This oven was taking almost 30 minutes to get to 200 on the LCD readout.









This is what the failed convection element looks like mounted in the rear of the oven. See picture on the bottom right.  Obviously it has failed and needs to be replaced. After replacing the element I timed the pre heat. To get up to 350 it took around 14 minutes.

Obviously many factors can cause an oven to heat shorter or longer but on these ovens around 15 minutes you should be around 350.

Failed Fisher Paykel Oven Convection Element

Failed Fisher Paykel Oven Convection Element

What did you find wrong with your Fisher Paykel oven? Was the convection element shorted out like the one pictured in this post? If so leave a brief comment in the comment section below. If you have questions about why your oven is taking so long to heat or if it’s not heating at all also leave a comment below.


Fisher Paykel Appliance Repair – Portland – Oregon

Jan 142011

Fisher paykel oven not working on convection mode, or long preheat times. Aero bake uses the convection element during preheat to heat the wall oven up to temperature faster.

After prolonged use the element will fail causing one of the conditions described. Fisher paykel ovens take longer to preheat than a cheaper oven, reason is the electronics and technology that is built into them, also the amount of metal holds more heat and for longer. In turn this makes for a more through cooking experience.

Testing the convection element with a volt meter will verify the elements operation. The convection element needs 220v to heat, by removing the access cover over the element you can gain access to the element to test.

Removing the back panel there are several screws on the back access panel that hold it to the liner.  With the access panel removed you will see the convection element on the back wall. There will be several screw that mount to the oven liner. Remove the screws and pull the element out, take the element out slowly trying not to pull the wires off the element when removing. If one of the element wires come off you may need to pull the oven out to retrieve.

Taking the wires off one by one or taking a picture will prevent the element from being wired improperly.
If the element has continuity then the internal function is operating fine. Testing to ensure proper voltage to the element may be need to make the proper diagnoses.

These unit use thermal protection in case a overheat condition did occur.  Check the serial break, on some of these there is an update kit for the thermal limit circuit, some where resetting preventing the oven from heat at too low of temperature.